Paula Nadelstern

When I create, I need an eclectic mix of multitalented fabrics. It is, after all, my palette. Whether fabrics belong to different styles or are intrinsically compatible is not an issue for me. I practice “pieceful” coexistence. I love fabrics that tickle my imagination: designs with hyperabundant colors and charismatic patterns, prints that play well with both commercial and dyed stuff, textiles that sometimes set the stage and sometimes dance on it. I want it all, I want it now, and I make no excuses for the size of my stash. As I have often said, I feel sorry for the ones who don’t get it.

When it comes to fabric, I‘ve got a serious case of wonderlust: I marvel at beautiful, extraordinarily patterned textiles, the kind that gets me wondering what I can make with it. I’m in my happy place when I‘m nudging seemingly mutually exclusive designs into agreement, finding the junction where patterns dovetail. Being a maker has always been an irresistible precept for me because I crave the addictive, satisfying payoff when a vague idea becomes a solid product that can be shared with fellow makers.

The truth is, I don’t really sew very well, but I want it to look like I do. Among other things, fabricating this illusion means using reliable tools. Think of it as trying to start a fire by rubbing two sticks together. It becomes a whole lot easier if one of the sticks is a match. Using the same tools consistently from the beginning of a project to the end is just plain common sense. So is making sure all of your measuring devices (rulers, graph paper, template plastic) agree with each other. Otherwise, your carefully measured pieces might not fit together.    

Elements of Quilt Block Design

A quilter has as much right to think of herself as a designer as any other artist. The key is to arm yourself not only with attitude but with knowledge. This discussion focuses on classic elements of design most relevant for our purpose.

I often think of myself as a tour guide, directing visual traffic. You’ve got to decide the route you’d like the eye to take when it travels around the quilt and then figure out which fabrics have the moxie to act like a trail of breadcrumbs, leading the way. The following essentials are as useful as a GPS because with these in your sewing basket, you can control alignment, show direction or mark a point of pivot.

Going Up Quilt by Stephanie Sheridan made with Needle Stars collection

Blocks as lines in the Going Up Quilt by Stephanie Sheridan with Needle Stars – Free Pattern available at Benartex.com

Line

Art defines line as a moving dot because the viewer’s eye must move to follow it. Identical motifs are perfect for creating implied lines because the eye tends to connect similar elements automatically.

Line turns out to be an expressive tool because each direction has a personality.

Shapes that run horizontally form a chorus line effect, causing a stripe like pattern that moves the eye left and right. A horizontal design suggests calmness and stability, perhaps because it is reminiscent of the sleeping posture. Patches trained to go up and down create a vertical line, which is interpreted as more visually active. Diagonal lines, like those radiating from the center, create the most dynamic effect because slanting lines strongly imply movement by hinting that change is imminent.

An intrinsic relationship exists between line and patchwork since most patchwork blocks are divided into straight sewing lines. Depending on the choice of color, some contours disappear into camouflaged seams while highlighted others draw attention to the edge created when two shapes meet.

Rhythm

Visual rhythm is based on repetition and refers to the movement of the viewer’s eye. Identical repeating motifs cause the eye to leap from element to repeated element. Not only do rhythmic patterns encourage a dynamic sense of movement, but they also cause an emotional response in the viewer. The palette of fabric can establish a smooth, graceful rhythm or a peppy, punchy march.

Symmetry

Trust symmetry. Realize that, since human beings are symmetrical creatures, symmetry is innately comfortable to our species. We welcome its balanced harmony. Most traditional block designs are symmetrical. There’s an inferred line down the middle of the block and corresponding patches are oriented to the left and right of this line. Identical fabric, whether an unassuming allover or a charismatic fussy cut, presented in pairs of mirror imaged patches guarantees visual coherence. Fitting intricate, symmetrical motifs into a pair of mirror-imaged patches is an elegant solution to many design questions. The agile patterns soften straight lines and create the illusion of graceful continuity. That said, I don’t want you to think symmetry is always the answer. I just want you to add it permanently to your internal list of design possibilities.

 

Thank you to my talented friends, creative Patternistas all, for generously sharing your valuable time and skills: Karen Benson, Liz Kolansky, Randa Mulford, Claudia Clark Myers, Ricki Selva, Peggy True, Vicki Welsh and Stephanie Sheridan. I hope you know how much I appreciate your efforts.

What Is A Puzzle Quilt?

A Puzzle Quilt is a sampler with a secret. Each block design is identically pieced and used twice. By using totally different fabric combinations, the illusion is created that each block appears unique. The “puzzle” is to pick out which two are the same. It’s the perfect medium for exploring how printed fabric can be used to vary the same patchwork configuration. 

Because this is a Puzzle Quilt, there are 6 pairs of blocks. Each block is made twice totaling 12 blocks. As the maker, your mission is to make each of the set as different from the other as possible. Each block should appear unique and not convey any clue as to which of the other 11 blocks is its twin. 

The fabulous, gorgeous BLOCK B3 was designed and made by Ricki Selva.

[Note to quilt shops: A Puzzle Quilt is a perfect Block of the Month program!] 

Designed by Paula Nadelstern

Finished size: 48” X 62-3/4” 

Fabric: Needle Stars by Paula Nadelstern for Benartex

See more projects in the new Needle Stars Lookbook

Puzzle Quilt Key

C1 = B4 BLOCK 1 

C2 = A3 BLOCK 2 

C3 = C4 BLOCK 3 

A2 = B3 BLOCK 4 

A1 = B2 BLOCK 5 

B1 = A4 BLOCK 6 

Fabric List

BLOCK A-1:

  • 13470-55 Needle Star Panel Blue Multi
  • 13474-58 Stardust Midnight
  • 13474-52 Stardust Ocean

BLOCK A-2:

  • 13470-10 Needle Star Panel Red Multi
  • 13474-51 Stardust Yellow
  • 13474-10 Stardust Red

BLOCK A-3:

  • 1714-12 Marbella Black
  • 13470-10 Needle Star Panel Red Multi
  • 13473-21 Chandelier Fuchsia
  • 13473-40 Chandelier Lime
  • 13473-58 Chandelier Midnight
  • 13473-63 Chandelier Purple

BLOCK A-4: 

  • 13470-10 Needle Star Panel Red Multi

  • 13471-55 Byzantium Blue
  • 13472-55 Square Dance Blue

BLOCK B-1: 

  • 13473-10 Chandelier Red Multi
  • 13473-12 Chandelier Black
  • 13473-21 Chandelier Fuchsia
  • 13473-40 Chandelier Lime
  • 13473-55 Chandelier Blue Multi
  • 13473-58 Chandelier Midnight
  • 13473-63 Chandelier Purple 

BLOCK B-2: 

  • 13470-10 Needle Star Panel Red Multi
  • 13472-10 Square Dance Red Multi 

BLOCK B-3 (By Ricki Selva): 

  • 13470-55 Needle Star Panel Blue Multi
  • 13470-10 Needle Star Panel Red Multi
  • 13471-55 Byzantium Blue Multi
  • 13474-99 Stardust Multi 

BLOCK B-4: 

  • 13473-10 Chandelier Red Multi
  • 13473-12 Chandelier Black
  • 13473-21 Chandelier Fuchsia
  • 13473-40 Chandelier Lime
  • 13473-55 Chandelier Blue Multi
  • 13473-58 Chandelier Midnight
  • 13473-63 Chandelier Purple

BLOCK C-1 

  • 13470-55 Needle Star Panel Blue Multi
  • 13470-10 Needle Star Panel Red Multi
  • 13471-55 Byzantium Blue Multi
  • 13471-10 Byzantium Red Multi
  • 13474-99 Stardust Multi 

BLOCK C-2 

  • 13470-55 Needle Star Panel Blue Multi
  • 13470-10 Needle Star Panel Red Multi
  • 13474-12 Stardust Black & White 

BLOCK C-3 

  • 13470-55 Needle Star Panel Blue Multi
  • 13470-10 Needle Star Panel Red Multi
  • 13473-40 Chandelier Lime 

BLOCK C-4: 

  • 13470-55 Needle Star Panel Blue Multi
  • 13470-10 Needle Star Panel Red Multi
  • 13473-58 Chandelier Midnight 
Needle Stars Pillows by Liz Kolansky

   MAKING THE QUILT: 

1. Each block measures 12” x 12” finished. In this quilt, the sashing is 2.75” H x 12” L finished. 

2. Draft each block pattern to size on graph paper. 

3. Use this drawing to make see-through templates with the ¼” seam allowance marked on the template. Using a transparent template material and marking the seam allowance gives you a template that functions like a window. This frame allows you to identify the area of the fabric that will be visible in the patch. 

NOTE: I focus a lot on what portion of a motif or color lands at the seamline. In some cases, the motif at the seamline connects to its mirror image. Other times it joins forces with a different but similarly colored motif to continue the design into the neighboring patch. If you want the motif to appear to float leave space between the edge of the motif and the seam line. For example, I often cut motifs along a mandala’s perimeter leaving some of the black backgrounds. Next, I cut the adjacent patch so black again lands along the same seam. When pieced together, the result is a camouflaged seam connection. You can see this effect in Block C4. 

4. Once you’ve decided where to position the template, hold it in place on the fabric and use a black, thin-pointed, permanent marker to trace A LOT of the motif’s details onto the template. Lots of marks will help you find identical patches multiple times accurately. 

Note that sometimes templates are needed to create a mirror image patch. It is more accurate to create a single patch: mark a legible L on one side and then turn it over and mark R on the other side. Use it first to mark the needed number of L patches; then flip it over and use it with the other side up to mark the R patches. The templates in Blocks A3 and C3 are examples of this. 

5. I like to piece my blocks using cornerstones, the little squares where sashing strips meet each other. My reason is twofold. First, it is easier to piece on a long strip accurately when there are obvious landmarks for pinning. Plus I get one more chance to play with an eye-catching, repetitive motif that causes the viewer’s eye to dance around the quilt. 

6. In a quilt with dissimilar blocks, like this one, I often first strip a narrow black frame around each block. The black edge ups each block’s color ante, letting the colors display their true hues. For the sashing in this case, I used the border print edged on both sides with solid black that runs along the two selvedges of 13472-55 Square Dance Blue. I cut the twenty-three 12.5” segments (with seam allowance) including the black outline on each side. Because of this, I didn’t have to piece an additional inner border on the four sides of each block. I love the result but as a quilter, I must admit this sashing version needed a lot of yardages and often we have to choose a more practical option. 

For more examples of Puzzle Quilt blocks and discussion relating to fabric and techniques, see PUZZLE QUILTS: Simple Blocks, Complex Fabrics by Paula Nadelstern, C&T Publication 2005. Available as an Ebook or POD. 

Paula Nadelstern

To discover more wonder-full free patterns with Paula Nadelstern’s latest collection please see the Needle Stars Lookbook